🌊The power of the wave was overwhelming and felt like a building collapsing on me.
🌅The sunset made it challenging to analyze and predict the wave's movements.
🏄♂️I took a calculated risk and decided to ride a steep and treacherous wave.
🔥Despite the violent wipeout, I remained calm and focused on survival.
🌌The sudden loss of vision due to the wipeout added to the intensity of the experience.
How did you prepare mentally and physically for such conditions?
—I have undergone extensive training to prepare myself physically and mentally for challenging conditions. This includes practicing breath control, stamina training, and visualizing different scenarios.
What safety measures did you have in place during the wave?
—I had a safety driver and was equipped with a life vest and inflatable board. I also made use of a personal locator beacon for tracking and rescue purposes.
What lessons did you learn from this experience?
—I learned the importance of assessing wave conditions accurately, being aware of my limits, and prioritizing safety above all else. It also reinforced the need for mental resilience and remaining calm in challenging situations.
Were there any long-term effects from the wipeout?
—Fortunately, I did not suffer any serious injuries from the wipeout. However, I underwent medical evaluation to ensure there were no underlying issues or concussions.
How has this experience impacted your approach to surfing?
—This experience has made me even more respectful of the power of the ocean and the importance of making calculated decisions. It has also motivated me to continue improving my skills and knowledge to enhance safety and performance.
00:00The wave hit me with incredible force, feeling like a collapsing building.
00:14The sunset made it challenging to analyze and predict the wave's movements accurately.
01:02I took a calculated risk and decided to ride a steep wave, fully committing to it.
02:24The wipeout caused a loss of vision, making it difficult to assess the wave's behavior.
03:18I experienced a violent impact underwater, feeling like I was being tossed in all directions.
04:13Despite the intense beating, I remained calm and focused, preparing for the next challenge.
05:45My vision gradually returned, and I was able to evaluate my condition and communicate with others.
06:47I made it back to safety, realizing the severity of the beating I had endured.
